The special sarees that Queen Ahilyabai of Holkar dynasty used to gift to royal guests, today the same Maheshwari sarees adorn the bodies of special and common women in the country and the world. Ahilyabai had appointed weavers with special skills to make these sarees in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh and from there today these sarees have reached the entire country. Earlier their demand was only in some cities but in the era of social media, due to new designs, their fame increased and today Maheshwar sarees are sold and bought all over the country.
The turnover of Maheshwari Saree is Rs 100 to 120 crore annually. These sarees are produced in 4,000 to 4,500 handlooms in Maheshwar, where 10-12 thousand weavers and apprentices are working. Seeing the increasing popularity and changing mood of people with time, Maheshwari saree makers are also giving new look and style to the sarees. They are doing many experiments in threads, color patterns and pallu. Now weavers have also started making suits, dupattas, curtains and pillow covers etc. in the style of Maheshwari saree. Like other industries, they are also taking the help of social media to increase sales.
Rahul Krishnakant, owner of Gujarati Handloom in Maheshwar, tells Gujarati Business Standard that there is no shortage of appreciators of Maheshwari sarees. But there are so many centers of different types of sarees in the country that it is not possible to survive in the market without doing something new in the fashion era. He says, ‘Maheshwari sarees were of golden brocade from the beginning. But now many experiments are being done in colors. Now these sarees are being given an antique look by using metals like copper, silver etc. Widening the pallu is also being experimented with.
Aziz Ansari, the weaver who prepares Maheshwari sarees, says that women look more for the kind of sarees which actresses are seen wearing in films and TV serials. In such a situation, while making sarees, we are also keeping in mind what is trending in terms of color and design or what women are liking. Ansari says that emphasis is also being laid on making multi-design sarees using 4 and 6 paddles. Apart from this, many types of intricate work is also being done on sarees.
Devendra Dhakale, a businessman of these sarees, says that the color combination in sarees is very important because the eyes of the buyer rest on it first. This combination is being decided after watching films. Businessmen say that along with new experiments, the demand for these sarees is also increasing. Rahul of Gujarati Handloom tells that once upon a time these sarees were sent only to Nagpur, Kolhapur, Mumbai, Hyderabad and Chennai because they had more buyers in Maharashtra and South India. But now there is no dearth of people appreciating them in other parts of the country too. Ansari says that now a lot of contracts for these sarees are available from Gujarat, Delhi, Punjab and Uttar Pradesh.
The price of Maheshwari saree generally starts from Rs 1,500 and goes up to Rs 20,000. But only sarees priced between Rs 3,000 to Rs 6,000 are sold the most. Dhakale says that earlier only special people used to wear these sarees but now common people also come to buy them. That is why even sarees priced at Rs 2,000 are being sold a lot.
The Corona epidemic also hit Maheshwari sarees hard and during that time the business almost came to a standstill. But as soon as the impact of the pandemic ended, it quickly came back on track and now sales are also recovering. Rahul of Gujarati Handloom has high hopes from the wedding season. He says, ‘This time there are more shadows falling. Therefore, the sales of Maheshwari sarees may increase by 10-15 percent in the season.
In the last few years, the cost of making Maheshwari saree was increasing and it especially increased after the Corona epidemic because the raw material used in it has become very expensive. Ansari says, ‘Before Corona, the price of silk was Rs 3,500 to Rs 4,000 per kg, but now it is available at Rs 6,000 to Rs 6,500 per kg. Even a bundle of yarn which was available for only Rs 900 or Rs 1,000 is now available for Rs 1,600-1,700. The price of a zari bundle has also increased by Rs 200-250 during this period.
Rahul says that along with the raw material, the wages of the weavers have also increased. Earlier they were given daily wages of Rs 400 to 500 but now they have to pay Rs 500 to 600. On the other hand, Ansari says that considering inflation and the household expenses of weavers, even the increased wages are inadequate.
However, the direct impact of increased costs has fallen on margins. Ansari says that earlier 30-40 percent margin was available on Maheshwari sarees but now even 20 percent is difficult to get. Devendra says, ‘Even brands like Fab India are now giving only 10-12 percent margin. Earlier, the saree which used to be made for Rs 5,000, is now made for Rs 6,500 after the raw material became expensive. Earlier, 60-70 percent of the price of a saree was due to the weaver’s wages, but now it is only 50 percent.
Maheshwari’s businessmen and weavers are also not lagging behind in taking advantage of the increasing role of social media and online platforms in business. Ansari says that social media has become a new medium of business, hence he is also promoting Maheshwari sarees by creating accounts on Facebook and Instagram etc. This also increases some of their buyers. They feel that if even four-five sarees are sold every month through social media, it would be icing on the cake. Rahul also believes that online platforms have increased the business of traders and weavers.
When Queen Ahilyabai of the Holkar dynasty thought of gifting something different and special to the guests, she called weavers from cities like Surat, Malwa and Hyderabad and settled them in Maheshwar. The sarees made here are recognized all over the world for their bright colors, striped or four-square borders and beautiful designs. Maheshwari sarees are completely plain but their borders have beautiful designs of flowers, leaves, swans, peacocks as well as designs of Maheshwar fort, palace, temple etc. There is a big wholesale market for these sarees in Kolhapur and Nagpur of Maharashtra. There, this saree is worn by the bride during the marriage ceremony. Maheshwari sarees are also widely worn on occasions like Durga Puja, Makar Sankranti, Anant Chaturdashi. Now, apart from festivals and weddings, the trend of wearing Maheshwari saree has started increasing on other occasions also.
Mahakal Lok Corridor was built two years ago in Ujjain, Madhya Pradesh, after which the number of tourists is increasing there. Maheshwar is about 150 kilometers from Ujjain. Rahul says that it is famous not only for sarees but also as a tourist place and there is a lot to offer here for tourists and pilgrims. Maheshwar Fort is the biggest attraction of the city, which was built by the Holkar dynasty in the 18th century. Built on the banks of the Narmada River, this fort offers a spectacular view of the river and surrounding areas. Maheshwar is also called the city of temples. Therefore, a large number of devotees and tourists from Ujjain also come to Maheshwar. Since it is the stronghold of Maheshwari sarees, it is natural for tourists to buy these sarees. In this way, the business of Maheshwari sarees is also benefiting a lot from Mahakal Lok Corridor.